Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Barcelona

Barcelona. The Catalan capital. Despite the difficulty we experienced trying to get to the city, there is a great energy. First off, the sun is shining. After the oppressive grey clouds of Italy and the constant precipitation, ranging from a mist to drizzle to a torrential down pour, we are thrilled to be in a new country. We were also sick of pasta. I didn't think it was possible to be sick of Italian food but it is. Our last night in Milan, a criteria for dinner was anything but pasta. So we are in the land of paella and sangria and sun. Things are looking up.

Barcelona is an intriguing city. It was founded by the Romans and was once surrounded by a thick wall. The streets in the Gothic Quarter are narrow and create a maze to catch and confuse tourists. The streets in the old Jewish Quarter are especially narrow as the people had no where to expand their homes except into the streets. The Jewish Quarter is full of interesting history. The Jews were the only one who could do business between the Christians and Moors and their middle man position led to great wealth. However, when the recession hit, they were the ones blamed. Later, they were also accused of introducing the Bubonic Plague. So when the Spanish Inquisition began, there were few Jews around to persecute because they had already left town. The narrow streets will suddenly open up into squares which are usually filled with musicians. Wandering the streets of Barcelona is quite a pleasant experience. It appeals to the ear as well as the eye. The Industrial Revolution started the migration from rural areas to the cities. New wealth was introduced. In Barcelona, there was new money, business men wanting to establish their wealth and status and virgin ground once the wall was torn down. This created the perfect foundation for Art Nueva architecture to build upon. Barcelona's most famous son is Antoni Gaudi, an eccentric and rather creative architect. His buildings are distinct, colorful and remind me of the Gum Drop Mountains in Candyland. His most famous design is the La Sagrada Familia, a massive cathedral. He took over the project early in its construction and 128 years later, construction is still being done. It is estimated to be finished in another 30 to 40 years. Unfortunately, many of the design plans and sculptures that Gaudi had prepared prior to his death (mistaken for a bum, he got ran over by a street tram) were destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. The cathedral is also a people´s church and construction is completely funded by people's donations. While we were there, the Pope consecrated the church, officially making it a basilica. It is an impressive building with fantastic detail and creativity and maybe it will be done when I go on another tour of Europe to celebrate my retirement.

We went out for over priced sangria with a fantastic young Canadian couple, David and Lindsay. We went to a place on Las Rambla, a massive boulevard that leads down to the Marina and is known for being a tourist hot spot. Street performers line the street in creative and bizarre costumes. A bull fighter next to C-P3O next to a levitating Yoda next to an underworld creature of undetermined species. Barcelona is also known for its pick pocketers. We met several people who had been robbed, including one girl, Sam from Canada, who ran the thief down in the metro and was able to retrieve her purse and identification cards but not her money.  Despite its reputation for thieves, it is an enjoyable city. One just needs to be aware of their belongings and surroundings. But then again, that is just good practice. Common sense, who knew?

Barcelona is home to some great parks. Montjuic is perched on top of a hill looking over the water. We went to Park Guell which was designed by Gaudi to be a wealthy housing development. Only three homes were built but they are remarkable to look at. He also integrated benches into the walk ways which is quite fun. The beach was the best though. Barcelona is located on the Mediterranean Sea. I had a glorious run down Las Rambla and then along the boardwalk. Melissa an I enjoyed a fantastic day at the beach. Sand was imported from the Sahara to create a beach for the 1992 Summer Olympics. It may be man made, but it is still very enjoyable. A chill day was also exactly what we needed. It would have been more enjoyable if we hadn't been hustled constantly, people circled the beach like vultures, pouncing on any new arrivals. The days soundtrack went something like this, "Massage? Massage? Only 5 Euro. Muy Bueno. Cold beer? Water? What you like? Hash? Cocaine? Massage? Sarong? Very nice! Coconut? It is very good. Marijuana? Massage?

Spain is known for its tapas. You make a dinner of tapas and just move from one bar to another, drinking sangria and eating small portions of tasty tapas. However, if you just go to one place, the tapas are not satisfying and you find yourself at the grocery store for something else to eat. Because people bar hop all night, the beers are much smaller which was a bit of a disappointment, especially since Germany set the standard with one liter beers. We had dinner at a restaurant recommended to us by a native Barcelonean. Founded in 1786 it is known for its Catalan specialities. It was absolutely delicious. The only bummer is that it did not open until 9 pm. That is very typical across Spain. Shops will open from 10 am to 2 pm, close for siesta and then open up again around 5 pm. It is a very different approach from our productivity driven culture. While it can be frustrating when you are used to convenience and multiple options, it is also something to appreciate. Time management reflects priorities and values. Traveling allows you an opportunity to observe people and the differences in values. So instead of being frustrated that a shop or cafe is closed, it is best to take a step back and contemplate the differences and what can be learned from them. It is also best to always carry granola bars with you as well. Easier to appreciate those differences if you aren't fainting from hunger.


Things I Did Not Expect When I Woke Up
Barcelona Edition
- See a nun wearing a tri colored baseball cap perched on top of her habit
- Help two Spainards do laundry. Help a man from Senegal  do laundry. It is universal. Men are generally clueless when it comes to laundry.
- Contemplate levitation
- Wander through a fabulous market of fruit, vegetable, and fish stalls
- Get a large macchiato in a miniature cup. A disappointing start to the day for sure.
- Play in the sand of the Sahara

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