Wednesday, September 29, 2010
The Power Within
Germany is a wonderful and thought provoking country. The events in the last century give good reason to pause. Under the Nazi regime, brutal measures were taken to crush the individual at concentration camps. The communists that followed tried to suppress the individual. The Communists viewed people as tools in their Utopian society. We went to the DDR museum and the propaganda was both interesting and appalling. I was most struck by how much an invested and planned economy did not plan for individuality. People have varied needs and wants which the economy could not meet. People were forced to be the same, to think the same, to drive the same car, to live in identical apartments. Regardless of the effort to squash out individuality neither the Nazis nor the Communists succeeded. The power of the individual, the power within is too great. However, that power comes with great responsibility. The Rick Steves Wannabe tour guide in Munich while annoying did do a great job of of explaining why the Nazi movement was able to take flight and captivate the country. We look back on the Nazis and think "what monsters" but they, like us today, were individuals who had the power to join or avoid the movement. Dodger's Ally in Munich is a testament to that. It is an ally that people would take to avoid walking past a Nazi statue commemorating the Beer Hall Uprising and being forced to salute it. Each person has the power to stand for something, to uphold peace as well as strife, justice or oppression, persecution or freedom, love as well as hate. A collection of individuals can create a movement. It can be for something noble like the Civil Rights Movement or the fall of the Berlin Wall or sinister like the Nazis. Each one of us has tremendous potential. power within is wonderful, dynamic, electric and yet terrifying. We live in the free world and the rights that we enjoy allow us to capitalize and realize that potential. Apathy, complacency and indifference are not options. It is decision time. How will you use the power within?
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Ein Bier Bitte
Oktoberfest
Ah, the celebration of beer! We learned the most important phrase, "Ein bier bitte" or "One beer please." Oktoberfest started in 1810 when royalty got married and the entire town of Munich celebrated for a week. The marriage didn't last but the party did. Prince Ludwig was a horn dog. He actually allowed women into the bars, a previously male-only territory, not because he was concerned about women's rights but because he wanted to pick up women. He then commemorated his exploits by having the royal artist paint portraits of his extramarital conquests. At any rate, a smashing good party has been occurring annually for 200 years in a park named after the princess bride, Theresa. We followed a steady stream of lederhosen and dirndls (the traditional Bavarian dress) to the park. We were met by a carnival drunk and on steroids. Huge beer tents with everyone dancing on the tables, a ferris wheel, roller coaster, amusement park rides, tons of people, music, pretzels the size of my head, massive 1 liter mugs of beer, waitresses carrying 6 of them at a time, half meter bratwurst, toasted and sugared nuts, the unfocused gaze of intoxication on the faces of staggering people... Oktoberfest is a sight to behold. It is also best appreciated with some alcohol on board. Melissa and I actually split beers in order to experience as many of the beer tents (and beers) as possible and still remember it. However, a liter of beer is easily split and we were having quite a nice time. The beer was delicious and went down oh so smoothly. We met people from America, Holland, Brazil, New Zealand, Australia, India, Nepal and of course, Germany. We met some German 20-somethings who then convinced us to go on some rides with them. They also introduced us to the Devil's Wheel, a spinning platform that people try to stay on. If one manages to survive the circumferential force of the turn table a giant ball is lowered from the ceiling and ropes thrown at you to either knock or pull you off the wheel. An interesting traditional game, clearly created and best enjoyed under the influence of alcohol.
Munich
Munich started as a humble village near a monastery. People would simply say that they lived by the monks and Munchen evolved from that. It is the capital of Bavaria and is very proud of its brewing history. It has a great town center and Marianplatz is quite nice. It is a musical city and very supportive of the arts. Simply walking the streets is a cultural experience and a variety of music from the street musicians fills the ears. The Nazi party also rose to fame in Munich and the city played a pivotal roll during the 1930s and 40s. In order to more fully appreciate the Bavarian culture, Melissa and I tried on dirndles, the traditional dress that women wear. In the section of the store devoted to traditional dress you can also find impressive push up bras guaranteed to make even the most flat-chested quite busty. In the mornings we would grab coffee, a delicious pastry and find a park to enjoy the day in. We went to the English Gardens where you can also find the Chinese Tower (not really sure on that one). We sat down underneath some trees and settled in to read our books. It was a beautiful day and many had a similar idea. However, we were decidedly out of place as we were the only ones wearing clothes.
We had a great time in Munich but were glad to leave after a couple of days. Oktoberfest is an absolutely insane party, best appreciated in small doses. I would also like to go back to Munich at some time when it isn't Oktoberfest. They say over 6 million people visit the festival a year. 6.5 million liters of beer are sold during the 2 week festival. I feel that that fact alone may color my impression of the city and it would definitely be interesting to go again.
Things You Don't Expect To Do When You Wake Up in the Morning
Munich Edition
1. Witness a half meter long hot dog
2. Spin on a giant wheel with a bunch of drunk Germans
3. Consider lederhosen an expected sight
4. Plunge 13 stories with random drunk Germans (a carnival ride :))
5. Eat a pretzel the size of my head
6. Assist a very drunk Indian to the train and then place him on the appropriate train to reach his hostel.
7. Have my water stolen by a drunk Kiwi
8. Soak in the rays in a nude park.
9. Rub Juilet's boob (Munich has a statue of Juliet from her sister city, Verona. Apparently if you rub the right breast, you will have good luck in love and I need all the help I can get)
Ah, the celebration of beer! We learned the most important phrase, "Ein bier bitte" or "One beer please." Oktoberfest started in 1810 when royalty got married and the entire town of Munich celebrated for a week. The marriage didn't last but the party did. Prince Ludwig was a horn dog. He actually allowed women into the bars, a previously male-only territory, not because he was concerned about women's rights but because he wanted to pick up women. He then commemorated his exploits by having the royal artist paint portraits of his extramarital conquests. At any rate, a smashing good party has been occurring annually for 200 years in a park named after the princess bride, Theresa. We followed a steady stream of lederhosen and dirndls (the traditional Bavarian dress) to the park. We were met by a carnival drunk and on steroids. Huge beer tents with everyone dancing on the tables, a ferris wheel, roller coaster, amusement park rides, tons of people, music, pretzels the size of my head, massive 1 liter mugs of beer, waitresses carrying 6 of them at a time, half meter bratwurst, toasted and sugared nuts, the unfocused gaze of intoxication on the faces of staggering people... Oktoberfest is a sight to behold. It is also best appreciated with some alcohol on board. Melissa and I actually split beers in order to experience as many of the beer tents (and beers) as possible and still remember it. However, a liter of beer is easily split and we were having quite a nice time. The beer was delicious and went down oh so smoothly. We met people from America, Holland, Brazil, New Zealand, Australia, India, Nepal and of course, Germany. We met some German 20-somethings who then convinced us to go on some rides with them. They also introduced us to the Devil's Wheel, a spinning platform that people try to stay on. If one manages to survive the circumferential force of the turn table a giant ball is lowered from the ceiling and ropes thrown at you to either knock or pull you off the wheel. An interesting traditional game, clearly created and best enjoyed under the influence of alcohol.
Munich
Munich started as a humble village near a monastery. People would simply say that they lived by the monks and Munchen evolved from that. It is the capital of Bavaria and is very proud of its brewing history. It has a great town center and Marianplatz is quite nice. It is a musical city and very supportive of the arts. Simply walking the streets is a cultural experience and a variety of music from the street musicians fills the ears. The Nazi party also rose to fame in Munich and the city played a pivotal roll during the 1930s and 40s. In order to more fully appreciate the Bavarian culture, Melissa and I tried on dirndles, the traditional dress that women wear. In the section of the store devoted to traditional dress you can also find impressive push up bras guaranteed to make even the most flat-chested quite busty. In the mornings we would grab coffee, a delicious pastry and find a park to enjoy the day in. We went to the English Gardens where you can also find the Chinese Tower (not really sure on that one). We sat down underneath some trees and settled in to read our books. It was a beautiful day and many had a similar idea. However, we were decidedly out of place as we were the only ones wearing clothes.
We had a great time in Munich but were glad to leave after a couple of days. Oktoberfest is an absolutely insane party, best appreciated in small doses. I would also like to go back to Munich at some time when it isn't Oktoberfest. They say over 6 million people visit the festival a year. 6.5 million liters of beer are sold during the 2 week festival. I feel that that fact alone may color my impression of the city and it would definitely be interesting to go again.
Things You Don't Expect To Do When You Wake Up in the Morning
Munich Edition
1. Witness a half meter long hot dog
2. Spin on a giant wheel with a bunch of drunk Germans
3. Consider lederhosen an expected sight
4. Plunge 13 stories with random drunk Germans (a carnival ride :))
5. Eat a pretzel the size of my head
6. Assist a very drunk Indian to the train and then place him on the appropriate train to reach his hostel.
7. Have my water stolen by a drunk Kiwi
8. Soak in the rays in a nude park.
9. Rub Juilet's boob (Munich has a statue of Juliet from her sister city, Verona. Apparently if you rub the right breast, you will have good luck in love and I need all the help I can get)
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Berlin
Berlin is massive. Once an obscure village located on marshland it now has 1.4 million people. I don't think we appreciated just how huge the city is until we arrived at the main train station and were blown away by the enormity. The transportation is amazing too. There is the Deutch Bahn (nationwide train), S-Bahn (Street train), U Bahn (underground), trams and buses. We got a bit turned around but a very nice German man helped us. When we emerged from the UBahn stop for our hostel, we immediately felt a bit uncomfortable, Melissa realized that Man in a Can (mace) isn't that helpful if you have no idea where it is. It's not like you can say, "Wait a minute, let me dig in my bag for a bit and then you may resume attacking me." The hostel was absolutely fantastic and boasted that it was "The Most Tiny Hostel in Town!" Enrico, the young proprietor, had tattoos covering both arms and an affinity for purple sweat pants. He gave us a street map with tons of circles marking the bets places to go and the must see sights of Berlin. A little intimidating actually. The hostel is located in Kreuzberg. It was nestled up along the west side of the Berlin Wall and not exactly prime real estate during the Cold War. To encourage people to move there, the government offered exemption in the army. It became a mecca to pacifists and hippies. Today it is the counter cultural center of Berlin. Walls are covered in graffiti and murals. But we noticed that it is a phenomenon city wide. An extreme form of expression and not related to gangs or violence. The freedom of speech was restricted for so long that it simply exploded onto the walls. The best example is The East Side Gallery, a section of the Berlin Wall that is absolutely fantastic to see. There are some incredible messages of peace and fantastic art. And it's free!
We went on the Free Walking Tour of Berlin. It was absolutely fantastic. We started at the Bradenburg Gate which is a centerpiece of Berlin. Once one of seven gates entering the city, it is the only remaining gate and it is known as the royal entrance as the street leads to the palace located within the city. The royal family had their official residence in Potsdam located southwest of the city. It was also part of the Berlin Wall so it was quite exciting when Berliners could pass through their beloved landmark again. The Reichstag is located near the Gate in the old royal hunting grounds. The German Parliament meets there. There is a glass dome over the parliament where citizens can actually look into the chamber. It is to represent the transparency that the government wishes to have after such a dark past. From there we walked to the Holocaust Memorial, officially named, Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe. 2077 plain, gray, concrete slabs rise from the ground. The slabs are different heights; some level with the ground, some as high as 4 meters. The path undulates as well. There is no pattern. It is sobering and immense and each person can walk away with a different thought from their experience. The saddest thing is that the stones were covered with a special anti-graffiti paint. Hitlers bunker is a short distance away. The Germans wisely chose not to mark the spot as they didn't want Hitler's death site to become a shrine. It is actually now a parking lot and many dog owners from the nearby apartment complex like to use it as a doggy dumping ground and one has to be a bit cautious of landmines.
We next headed to the Luftwaffe Headquarters, surprisingly the only building left untouched by the bombing raids. After the War, the building was utilized by the Soviets and became the Ministry of Ministries (very Orwellian). A massive protest was held there which was followed by a massacre, one of the many atrocities committed by the communist regime. Checkpoint Charlie is rather unimpressive and has turned into a gimmicky tourist attraction. We walked by cathedrals that have been rebuilt after the war. The Nazis had many of the statues removed from buildings during the bombing raids. After the war, they were placed back on the buildings. The buildings look a bit odd; clearly old designs but you can tell newer stones have been used which have been topped off with really old looking statues. The TV Tower is, in my opinion, a hideous blight on the city. Clearly a Soviet design, it was intended to show the world just how great Soviet engineering and prowess is. However, it had to be completed with some help from Swedish engineers. The massive globe atop the tower actually displays a cross when the sun hits it. I found it encouraging and amusing that Christ shines even when people try to block Him out and deny His existence and forbid people from believing.
I was struck by Babelplatz. It is located just outside the old library of Humboldt University, a prestigious educational institution. When the Nazi's took power, they burned 20,000 books. Original manuscripts, books written by Jews and communists, anything that countered Nazi theology was thrown into the fire. Many university professors and students were involved in the book burning. The university has grappled with their role and now have a daily book sale across from Babelplatz, regardless of the weather and sell copies of many of the books that were burned that night. There is also a telling memorial built into the plaza. A glass panel allows you to look down into a white room line with bookshelves, enough to hold 20,000 books. It is a fantastic example of how Germans have honored the past, acknowledged the good and the bad, incorporated the lessons learned and moved on. I think we can all learn from that.
Food
Not my favorite. But then again, it could have been where we were. Surprise surprise, Berlin doesn't have good Mexican food, it was our hostel-mates' idea to go there. There is a huge Arabic population. I had a Donar Kebap that was decent but Melissa had a terrible one. We ate a berliner, a cream filled pastry in memory of JFK's famous proclamation of "I am a Berliner" There is some debate of the grammar used and if it was appropriate of if he truly announced that he was indeed a cream filled pastry. The main beer, "Becks" wasn't that great. Curryworst is pretty terrible as well.
Things I Didn't Think I Would Do When I Woke Up in the Morning
I have decided to start a section on things that I didn't expect to do when I woke up in the morning, because there are a lot of things that happen that are a bit odd.
Berlin Edition:
Arm wrestle Australians in a Berlin Bar at 2am after taking a shot of absinthe.
Learn that "serviette" is what Canadians say for napkin.
Play "Name the State Capital" as a drinking game with a Canadian.
Sit on a massive park bench and a car that has been covered with astro turf.
We went on the Free Walking Tour of Berlin. It was absolutely fantastic. We started at the Bradenburg Gate which is a centerpiece of Berlin. Once one of seven gates entering the city, it is the only remaining gate and it is known as the royal entrance as the street leads to the palace located within the city. The royal family had their official residence in Potsdam located southwest of the city. It was also part of the Berlin Wall so it was quite exciting when Berliners could pass through their beloved landmark again. The Reichstag is located near the Gate in the old royal hunting grounds. The German Parliament meets there. There is a glass dome over the parliament where citizens can actually look into the chamber. It is to represent the transparency that the government wishes to have after such a dark past. From there we walked to the Holocaust Memorial, officially named, Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe. 2077 plain, gray, concrete slabs rise from the ground. The slabs are different heights; some level with the ground, some as high as 4 meters. The path undulates as well. There is no pattern. It is sobering and immense and each person can walk away with a different thought from their experience. The saddest thing is that the stones were covered with a special anti-graffiti paint. Hitlers bunker is a short distance away. The Germans wisely chose not to mark the spot as they didn't want Hitler's death site to become a shrine. It is actually now a parking lot and many dog owners from the nearby apartment complex like to use it as a doggy dumping ground and one has to be a bit cautious of landmines.
We next headed to the Luftwaffe Headquarters, surprisingly the only building left untouched by the bombing raids. After the War, the building was utilized by the Soviets and became the Ministry of Ministries (very Orwellian). A massive protest was held there which was followed by a massacre, one of the many atrocities committed by the communist regime. Checkpoint Charlie is rather unimpressive and has turned into a gimmicky tourist attraction. We walked by cathedrals that have been rebuilt after the war. The Nazis had many of the statues removed from buildings during the bombing raids. After the war, they were placed back on the buildings. The buildings look a bit odd; clearly old designs but you can tell newer stones have been used which have been topped off with really old looking statues. The TV Tower is, in my opinion, a hideous blight on the city. Clearly a Soviet design, it was intended to show the world just how great Soviet engineering and prowess is. However, it had to be completed with some help from Swedish engineers. The massive globe atop the tower actually displays a cross when the sun hits it. I found it encouraging and amusing that Christ shines even when people try to block Him out and deny His existence and forbid people from believing.
I was struck by Babelplatz. It is located just outside the old library of Humboldt University, a prestigious educational institution. When the Nazi's took power, they burned 20,000 books. Original manuscripts, books written by Jews and communists, anything that countered Nazi theology was thrown into the fire. Many university professors and students were involved in the book burning. The university has grappled with their role and now have a daily book sale across from Babelplatz, regardless of the weather and sell copies of many of the books that were burned that night. There is also a telling memorial built into the plaza. A glass panel allows you to look down into a white room line with bookshelves, enough to hold 20,000 books. It is a fantastic example of how Germans have honored the past, acknowledged the good and the bad, incorporated the lessons learned and moved on. I think we can all learn from that.
Food
Not my favorite. But then again, it could have been where we were. Surprise surprise, Berlin doesn't have good Mexican food, it was our hostel-mates' idea to go there. There is a huge Arabic population. I had a Donar Kebap that was decent but Melissa had a terrible one. We ate a berliner, a cream filled pastry in memory of JFK's famous proclamation of "I am a Berliner" There is some debate of the grammar used and if it was appropriate of if he truly announced that he was indeed a cream filled pastry. The main beer, "Becks" wasn't that great. Curryworst is pretty terrible as well.
Things I Didn't Think I Would Do When I Woke Up in the Morning
I have decided to start a section on things that I didn't expect to do when I woke up in the morning, because there are a lot of things that happen that are a bit odd.
Berlin Edition:
Arm wrestle Australians in a Berlin Bar at 2am after taking a shot of absinthe.
Learn that "serviette" is what Canadians say for napkin.
Play "Name the State Capital" as a drinking game with a Canadian.
Sit on a massive park bench and a car that has been covered with astro turf.
The Berlin Wall
Berlin has played a pivotal roll in modern history. After World War II, Germany was divided by the Americans, British, French and Soviets. Although Berlin is located in East Germany, the capital was divided by the Allies. West Berlin became a democratic island in communist East Germany. Many East Germans realized that they could have a much better life in West Germany. Berliners would simply move across the dividing line into West Berlin. To stop the hemorrhage of talent, intelligence, and lost potential of 'good workers', East Germany decided to construct a wall. No warning was given and the day that it went into effect, 40,000 soldiers holding barbed wire formed a barricade that split the city in half. Although billed to "keep the evil capitalist influence out", the wall was really constructed to keep East Germans in. The wall severed the city, people were cut off from their jobs, families, friends, lives and in some cases forced to live lives they did not choose. The wall itself is not that impressive, prefabricated concrete slabs. It was the death strip between the wall and second wall on the East Germany side that made it dangerous. Checkpoint Charlie became the site of a Cold War showdown/pissing contest between the Soviets and America.
The wall was torn down November 1989 in an event that I wish I had been old enough to remember. A city divided has been unified but it is still trying to grapple with its turbulent past and discover itself today. It is dynamic and exciting. Tons of building projects are being done and the search for self discovery is reflected in the architecture. During my stay, I was inspired to go on a modern history crusade because I realized how much I don't know about the events that are still shaping today. Berlin is an interesting city to visit. I consider myself more of a country girl so I'm not going to lie, I was more than happy to leave the huge metropolitan center. Berlin though, check it out. And go on a Sandeman's New Europe Free Walking Tour (not really free as you are expected to tip the tour guide - but you tip according to what you think it was worth and they have them in several cities across Europe). History will come alive as you walk the same streets that world leaders and movements have walked and stand by landmarks associated with incredible world events. Really quite exciting.
The wall was torn down November 1989 in an event that I wish I had been old enough to remember. A city divided has been unified but it is still trying to grapple with its turbulent past and discover itself today. It is dynamic and exciting. Tons of building projects are being done and the search for self discovery is reflected in the architecture. During my stay, I was inspired to go on a modern history crusade because I realized how much I don't know about the events that are still shaping today. Berlin is an interesting city to visit. I consider myself more of a country girl so I'm not going to lie, I was more than happy to leave the huge metropolitan center. Berlin though, check it out. And go on a Sandeman's New Europe Free Walking Tour (not really free as you are expected to tip the tour guide - but you tip according to what you think it was worth and they have them in several cities across Europe). History will come alive as you walk the same streets that world leaders and movements have walked and stand by landmarks associated with incredible world events. Really quite exciting.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Sachsenhausen
Saturday, we went to Sachsenhausen. It is a concentration camp located about 45 minutes north of Berlin. It was opened in 1936. Dachau, the oldest camp and the only one to run during the entire Nazi reign, opened in 1933 outside of Munich. Sachsenhausen was to be the model camp, the one all other camps were designed after. Its triangular design was intended to guard as many prisoners as possible with the least amount of guards. It first held political prisoners but later held communists, Jews, homosexuals, criminals, as well as social deviants such as the homeless, alcoholics and the mentally ill. Resistance leaders were also interrogated in the T Barracks. Women were held in a brothel which was frequented by the SS or used as a reward for prisoners. Sachsenhausen was billed as a labor rehabilitation camp. The Germans were told, "These people don't fit with society, but through a rehabilitation program based on work, they will be able to." And as many of the public were uncomfortable when presented with these types of people, they believed the lies. Perhaps that is because they wanted to and did not want to know the dark power that humanity is capable of.
We walked the same path from the train station to the camp that the prisoners walked. I asked Melissa "Can you imagine living in this town back then?" She countered, "Can you imagine living in it now?" Homes led right up to the camp fence. At the time, SS and their families lived there, putting a barrier between the camp and the town. People still live in these homes. The former SS barracks and training camp was located just outside the camp. Today, the facility is used to train the state police. You may wonder, "How can the Germans reuse things that have such a dark history?" However, if the Germans were to throw away everything that was connected to the Nazis, Germany would cease to exist. Their approach is much better. They commemorate and move on. They look toward the future. I wonder if this approach is related to their fascination of modern architecture and art.
We entered through the Gate A, the main gate, past the cruel words, "Work Makes You Free." Over 200,000 prisoners passed through that gate. They were stripped, shaved, humiliated, demeaned and called "subhuman." Every attempt was made to strip them of their individuality. They were forced to work exceedingly hard under absolutely ghastly conditions. Many companies had contracts for the slave labor. They paid a small fee for a person per day. There was also a boot track comprised of different terrain. The German Army wanted to know which boots would be the best to buy. Prisoners were forced to run back and forth testing out the boots. Once on the boot testing track detail, the average person lasted 14 days. Medical "experirments" were also conducted. One concern was gangrene. To find a cure that could be applied to the battlefield, prisoners were used as lab rats. An incision would be made, rusty nails and dirt inserted and then sutured up. An infection would rage and different methods would be used for "scientific advancement" all with complete disregard of the patient and without the benefit of analgesia. Absolutely sickening.
Much of the camp has been destroyed. Two buildings in the Jewish quarter have been rebuilt and exhibits depict how life was. One building has smoke damage. In 1992, the Isreali Prime Minister spoke at the camp. Neonazis broke in that night and set fire to the building. The damage has been incorporated into the memorial to show that discrimination, antisemitism and darkness still exist. The original infirmary and morgue still stand. Over 54,000 people met their deaths at Sachsenhausen. Protocol stated that an autopsy be performed for each death in order to prove to the Red Cross that the person died of natural causes. As time progressed, prisoners were ordered to make a cursory incision and then pick from a list of the 7 causes of natural death posted on the wall. Apparently, the commandant of the camp had a thing for tattoos so any tattoo was cut out and given to him for special occasions. The foundation of Station Z can also be seen. The Nazis were unique in their systematic, efficient and ruthless approach to death of which Station Z is a prime example. It was set up like a doctor's office and designated prisoners (housed separately) led the condemned to their death. When they were measuring a person's height, they were really positioning the man so that the back of their head would be in the sights of their executioner. The system was designed so that SS would not have to see the prisoners face, no interaction, just the back of their heads. This was to prevent SS mental breakdown.
The camp was liberated by the Russians in 1945 who turned around and used it to serve their own purposes until 1950. They placed their political enemies as well as former SS behind the bars. You would think after seeing something so terrible as a concentration camp, you would want to make every effort to uphold human rights, not fall into the same trap as the former perpetrators. The camp was then reopened in 1960 by the Soviets. Their memorial is everything a memorial should not be. Rather than to remember a dark time and all of the victims, it was incorporated into Soviet propaganda. The memorial is ugly at best and remembers only the communists who were held there.
The atrocities committed at Sachsenhausen are terrible. I admire how Germany has acknowledged the past and taken responsibility. They have gone so far as to make denial of the holocaust illegal. Swastikas, SS embalms, and the Seig Heil salute have all been banned. Their efforts to acknowledge the past has in part made them the successful nation they are today. They have done a much better job of honoring WWII than many other countries. America has done a pathetic job of honoring their past mistakes; atrocities committed against Native Americans, Japanese American internment camps, the Tuskegee experiment, decades of discrimination towards African Americans. The list goes on. America has skimmed over the Native Americans, marginalizing that piece of history, thereby marginalizing the people and culture. I wonder if that hasn't influenced the Native American attitude today and the oppression and depression that exists.
People say, "The Nazis and Hitler were a bunch of monsters." At the time, the SS was considered a great job. There was honor in it. They were the elite. For years, they had been told that some people were the enemy and they were capturing an opportunity to protect their nation against an enemy. By labeling people as monsters, it takes humanity out of the equation, which is incredibly dangerous. When humanity is removed, we don't realize just how monstrous our actions as humans can be. Sadly, we all have that capability. The Nazi regime was a terrible and dark time in history. Unfortunately, there are some terrible and dark things that are happening today. We have to realize the power that we have within us, for good and for evil. It is up to us to choose how we use that power.
We walked the same path from the train station to the camp that the prisoners walked. I asked Melissa "Can you imagine living in this town back then?" She countered, "Can you imagine living in it now?" Homes led right up to the camp fence. At the time, SS and their families lived there, putting a barrier between the camp and the town. People still live in these homes. The former SS barracks and training camp was located just outside the camp. Today, the facility is used to train the state police. You may wonder, "How can the Germans reuse things that have such a dark history?" However, if the Germans were to throw away everything that was connected to the Nazis, Germany would cease to exist. Their approach is much better. They commemorate and move on. They look toward the future. I wonder if this approach is related to their fascination of modern architecture and art.
We entered through the Gate A, the main gate, past the cruel words, "Work Makes You Free." Over 200,000 prisoners passed through that gate. They were stripped, shaved, humiliated, demeaned and called "subhuman." Every attempt was made to strip them of their individuality. They were forced to work exceedingly hard under absolutely ghastly conditions. Many companies had contracts for the slave labor. They paid a small fee for a person per day. There was also a boot track comprised of different terrain. The German Army wanted to know which boots would be the best to buy. Prisoners were forced to run back and forth testing out the boots. Once on the boot testing track detail, the average person lasted 14 days. Medical "experirments" were also conducted. One concern was gangrene. To find a cure that could be applied to the battlefield, prisoners were used as lab rats. An incision would be made, rusty nails and dirt inserted and then sutured up. An infection would rage and different methods would be used for "scientific advancement" all with complete disregard of the patient and without the benefit of analgesia. Absolutely sickening.
Much of the camp has been destroyed. Two buildings in the Jewish quarter have been rebuilt and exhibits depict how life was. One building has smoke damage. In 1992, the Isreali Prime Minister spoke at the camp. Neonazis broke in that night and set fire to the building. The damage has been incorporated into the memorial to show that discrimination, antisemitism and darkness still exist. The original infirmary and morgue still stand. Over 54,000 people met their deaths at Sachsenhausen. Protocol stated that an autopsy be performed for each death in order to prove to the Red Cross that the person died of natural causes. As time progressed, prisoners were ordered to make a cursory incision and then pick from a list of the 7 causes of natural death posted on the wall. Apparently, the commandant of the camp had a thing for tattoos so any tattoo was cut out and given to him for special occasions. The foundation of Station Z can also be seen. The Nazis were unique in their systematic, efficient and ruthless approach to death of which Station Z is a prime example. It was set up like a doctor's office and designated prisoners (housed separately) led the condemned to their death. When they were measuring a person's height, they were really positioning the man so that the back of their head would be in the sights of their executioner. The system was designed so that SS would not have to see the prisoners face, no interaction, just the back of their heads. This was to prevent SS mental breakdown.
The camp was liberated by the Russians in 1945 who turned around and used it to serve their own purposes until 1950. They placed their political enemies as well as former SS behind the bars. You would think after seeing something so terrible as a concentration camp, you would want to make every effort to uphold human rights, not fall into the same trap as the former perpetrators. The camp was then reopened in 1960 by the Soviets. Their memorial is everything a memorial should not be. Rather than to remember a dark time and all of the victims, it was incorporated into Soviet propaganda. The memorial is ugly at best and remembers only the communists who were held there.
The atrocities committed at Sachsenhausen are terrible. I admire how Germany has acknowledged the past and taken responsibility. They have gone so far as to make denial of the holocaust illegal. Swastikas, SS embalms, and the Seig Heil salute have all been banned. Their efforts to acknowledge the past has in part made them the successful nation they are today. They have done a much better job of honoring WWII than many other countries. America has done a pathetic job of honoring their past mistakes; atrocities committed against Native Americans, Japanese American internment camps, the Tuskegee experiment, decades of discrimination towards African Americans. The list goes on. America has skimmed over the Native Americans, marginalizing that piece of history, thereby marginalizing the people and culture. I wonder if that hasn't influenced the Native American attitude today and the oppression and depression that exists.
People say, "The Nazis and Hitler were a bunch of monsters." At the time, the SS was considered a great job. There was honor in it. They were the elite. For years, they had been told that some people were the enemy and they were capturing an opportunity to protect their nation against an enemy. By labeling people as monsters, it takes humanity out of the equation, which is incredibly dangerous. When humanity is removed, we don't realize just how monstrous our actions as humans can be. Sadly, we all have that capability. The Nazi regime was a terrible and dark time in history. Unfortunately, there are some terrible and dark things that are happening today. We have to realize the power that we have within us, for good and for evil. It is up to us to choose how we use that power.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Heidelberg - Castles, Mist and Merlin's
When I crossed the finish line at the marathon, Melissa greeted me with a hug and said, "We're going to Heidelberg!" While I was running, she did travel research in an Internet cafe on computers the speed of Ents (yes, that is a LOTR reference) with Dutch keyboards. Not a frustrating combo at all. The train to Copenhagen was going to be 14 hours which just sounded miserable and for the short time we had planned there, not worth it. So off to Heidelberg Germany instead. A fantastic option. Our train journey east was not smooth. We were kindly asked to get off the train at one point. We have Eurorail passes. These allow us to use any participating rail line throughout Europe. However, some trains require reservations to board and we quickly discovered this. Upon discovering that we did not have reservations for the train from Brussels to Köln (Cologne) the train official moved us to the luggage area at the back of the car and asked us (very nicely) to get off the train at Liege. We were thrilled with this option as it was much better than 1) paying the entire fair from Brussels to Köln when our Eurorail already covered it and 2) getting booted off the train into the Belgian countryside. I found our stop in Liege amusing because Bert, a man I had met at the marathon who had very small round blue glasses, and his family had been very adamant that I visit Liege, a university town in Eastern Belgium. We caught the next train (with reservations this time) and were on our way.
A very tired Melissa and a sore Kate arrived in Heidelberg. Our hostel was great. It was clean, small and had a great common area and kitchen. It was very light and had a peaceful, natural quality to it. I highly recommend Steffi's in Heidelberg to fellow travelers. We set off for Merlins upon the recommendation of the hostel. Naturally, we set off in the wrong directions but quickly oriented ourselves. Merlins was delicious - best meal of the trip thus far. Potato cakes with a champignon mushroom sauce, a salad (sans mayo and pickled things - yay) and a fantastic wheat beer - Heidelbergerweiss.
Heidelberg is located on the Neckar River, about 20 km from where the Neckar flows into the Rhine. The castle is the most prominent landmark. It was founded in the 1200s from a fortress. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times before being abandoned in the 1800s. There is a fantastic medieval quality. The ruins are impressive. Massive kegs still exist from when they tried to withstand seiges. One barrel could hold 195,000 liters of wine and has its own room. We also visited the German Pharmacy Museum. It had many virtues. It was indoors, warm, free and was educational. Next we walked through Olde Town, across the bridge and then had Spanish Hot Cocoa, so thick that it had be drunk one delicious spoonful at time. We also managed to get on the bus going the wrong way and rode an ENTIRE bus route. It was a great way to see the city. School children rode the city bus rather than a designated school bus. They were very well mannered. I was also impressed by the driver's ability to navigate narrow steep winding roads. The following day it rained. I also had a nasty cold. We took a river cruise up the Neckar river because the boat was covered and we would still be able to see things. Old castles could be seen in the mist that covered the vivid green hillsides, giving the land a very mythical quality. Back on dry ground again (Melissa was thankful as her choice picked randomly from a German menu resembled pickled anemic worms (I think it was pickled ham slivers) and was feeling a bit queasy). Olde Town was delightful to walk through again and then we headed back to our hostel. We stopped at a small grocery and gathered ingredients for dinner. It was great to cook dinner together, something that we have always enjoyed as roommates.
That night we headed out with some hostel mates to watch a soccer (football) match. Heidelberg is a college town. The oldest university in Germany is located there. Our hostel was filled with students who were trying to find lodging before the school year starts in October. A room in a flat or house will go for 300-400 Euros a month. 50-200 people will compete for one room. Some of the students were celebrating that they had finally found a room while others were drinking to their frustration and sorrow that no one wanted to live with them. One student said, "You come up with reasons for why they should pick you, like you have to justify your presence" We had a great conversation with Thomas who had just finished his nursing courses and was getting ready to start med school. He will be a good doctor, clearly intelligent, he also has a very caring presence and takes time to listen to people. He also has a great sense of humor. I was relaying how impressed I was that upon buying decongestant at the pharmacy, I was given a package of tissues. He replied, "Ah yes, and when you have stomach problems, we give you toilet paper too." I let out an incredulous, "Really? Wow, they are so considerate here." Nope apparently, that was a joke.
Melissa and I did have a bit of a break in relations. Across from the train station and bus stop there is a large statue. A creature with people heads coming out of it and a head spinning in the middle. Melissa said that it was giraffe and clearly concerned with its gastric motility. I maintained that it was horse getting a colonoscopy.
A very tired Melissa and a sore Kate arrived in Heidelberg. Our hostel was great. It was clean, small and had a great common area and kitchen. It was very light and had a peaceful, natural quality to it. I highly recommend Steffi's in Heidelberg to fellow travelers. We set off for Merlins upon the recommendation of the hostel. Naturally, we set off in the wrong directions but quickly oriented ourselves. Merlins was delicious - best meal of the trip thus far. Potato cakes with a champignon mushroom sauce, a salad (sans mayo and pickled things - yay) and a fantastic wheat beer - Heidelbergerweiss.
Heidelberg is located on the Neckar River, about 20 km from where the Neckar flows into the Rhine. The castle is the most prominent landmark. It was founded in the 1200s from a fortress. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times before being abandoned in the 1800s. There is a fantastic medieval quality. The ruins are impressive. Massive kegs still exist from when they tried to withstand seiges. One barrel could hold 195,000 liters of wine and has its own room. We also visited the German Pharmacy Museum. It had many virtues. It was indoors, warm, free and was educational. Next we walked through Olde Town, across the bridge and then had Spanish Hot Cocoa, so thick that it had be drunk one delicious spoonful at time. We also managed to get on the bus going the wrong way and rode an ENTIRE bus route. It was a great way to see the city. School children rode the city bus rather than a designated school bus. They were very well mannered. I was also impressed by the driver's ability to navigate narrow steep winding roads. The following day it rained. I also had a nasty cold. We took a river cruise up the Neckar river because the boat was covered and we would still be able to see things. Old castles could be seen in the mist that covered the vivid green hillsides, giving the land a very mythical quality. Back on dry ground again (Melissa was thankful as her choice picked randomly from a German menu resembled pickled anemic worms (I think it was pickled ham slivers) and was feeling a bit queasy). Olde Town was delightful to walk through again and then we headed back to our hostel. We stopped at a small grocery and gathered ingredients for dinner. It was great to cook dinner together, something that we have always enjoyed as roommates.
That night we headed out with some hostel mates to watch a soccer (football) match. Heidelberg is a college town. The oldest university in Germany is located there. Our hostel was filled with students who were trying to find lodging before the school year starts in October. A room in a flat or house will go for 300-400 Euros a month. 50-200 people will compete for one room. Some of the students were celebrating that they had finally found a room while others were drinking to their frustration and sorrow that no one wanted to live with them. One student said, "You come up with reasons for why they should pick you, like you have to justify your presence" We had a great conversation with Thomas who had just finished his nursing courses and was getting ready to start med school. He will be a good doctor, clearly intelligent, he also has a very caring presence and takes time to listen to people. He also has a great sense of humor. I was relaying how impressed I was that upon buying decongestant at the pharmacy, I was given a package of tissues. He replied, "Ah yes, and when you have stomach problems, we give you toilet paper too." I let out an incredulous, "Really? Wow, they are so considerate here." Nope apparently, that was a joke.
Melissa and I did have a bit of a break in relations. Across from the train station and bus stop there is a large statue. A creature with people heads coming out of it and a head spinning in the middle. Melissa said that it was giraffe and clearly concerned with its gastric motility. I maintained that it was horse getting a colonoscopy.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
In Flanders Field - So Much More Than a Marathon
YAY!!! I completed my first marathon! 4:37. My goal was to finish it and to run the entire way. Mission accomplished on both fronts. I am not the fastest, nor will I ever be. I only have dedication and stubborness working for me. Slow and steady may not win the race, but it gets the job done. We woke up late (I set my alarm to 6pm) and rushed out the door to a waiting taxi to take us to the train station. I loaded the bus in the rain. The dreary day matched my thoughts. "This is going to suck. Why am I doing this again? Why did I think I could do this?" I sat next to a 'judicial policeman' aka an investigator from Belgium. This was his 7th marathon and he had scounted out the course the day before on his bike. Clearly, he was much more serious about running than I. We arrived in Niueport to gray skies but thankfully, no rain. After checking in, a small crowd of men gathered around me (not gonna lie, I kind of enjoyed it) and all wanted to know the same thing. Why had I traveled to Belgium to run a rather obscure marathon? Why had I traveled there to run my first marathon? I had a lovely discussion with a pharmacist who likes to do ultra-marathons and a businessman who had recently returned to Belgium after living 2 years in India. The pharmacist noted that most marathon runners tend to be well educated. However, most ultra-marathoners tend to be millitary or ex-cons.
We gathered at the start line to the music of "Chariots of Fire" cheesy, but moving all the same. An overpowering feeling welled up from within and then the gun shot started the race. I started at the back and was a bit discouraged when I seemed to be neck and neck with a grandpa for the first 5 miles. I then caught up with two English chaps, Dan and Ben who had decided to run the marathon four days before. They had completed the London marathon but had done little (Ben) to no (Dan) training since then. We chatted and laughed for quite some time as we passed corn fields, cattle grazing, tractors (yes John Deere), small farms, and WWI monuments. Ben sped up at mile 13 while Dan and I stayed behind. One of my wishes had been to encourage other runners. I was unsure of how to do this with the language barrier beyond smiling at people, giving the thumbs up, and saying "success!" or "good luck". I was thrilled to be able to cheer on the English men. The course was absolutely beautiful and I enjoyed the rural quality. However, crowds can be a huge help when fatigue sets in. At every point where there were people I gave a huge "woohoo!" and then felt a bit rediculous and loud. Miles 16-20 were a bit discouraging and Dan dropped back at mile 19 but then caught up again from miles 21-25, which was great. My longest run prior to the marathon had been 23 miles which I did before the flight over. Another runner kindly observed that I should have had my long run 2 weeks prior to the marathon rather than a week. I replied, "Yes, that is what all the running articles and what my legs say. Oh well though. Live and learn. Learn and live." When I finally got into town and into the main square, I started sprinting and felt as though I were floating. The people at the finish line greeted me and there is something about running a marathon that is transcultural. The feelings of euphoria, success, the endorphins... ah it is a beautiful thing. It was a great to have accomplished a goal that I had been working towards for months. Melissa was there at the finish line with a huge hug. Although she thinks I'm completly crazy for wanting to run a marathon, she has been one of my biggest supporters. A true friend.
That night I read "In Flanders Fields" by Major John McCrae, a medical officer with the Canadian Army in WWI.
While running the marathon, I was struck by how beautiful the country was. It seemed that the crops had grown to cover the scars of a brutal war fought almost a century ago. I wonder if by my initial raction to Ieper, if they did die in vain. The region was demolished, leveled by the war. Buckets upon buckets are still collected of shrapnel. Farmers still uncover mutions (highly unstable at this point) and remains while plowing the fields. How long did it take for the fields to become fertile again. Trenches still weave through the backyards of homes. At first glance, it seemed that life has moved on, poppies still grow through it all. However a further look is required. A pause is needed to begin to grasp the tragedy wrecked by fours years of war. It was to be the War that Ended All Wars. Sadly, the Treaty of Variselles lead only to another war, much larger and worse than the one before. The devestation of war must be understood, appreciatated. What we understand of history has a great impact on our actions today and the future.
We gathered at the start line to the music of "Chariots of Fire" cheesy, but moving all the same. An overpowering feeling welled up from within and then the gun shot started the race. I started at the back and was a bit discouraged when I seemed to be neck and neck with a grandpa for the first 5 miles. I then caught up with two English chaps, Dan and Ben who had decided to run the marathon four days before. They had completed the London marathon but had done little (Ben) to no (Dan) training since then. We chatted and laughed for quite some time as we passed corn fields, cattle grazing, tractors (yes John Deere), small farms, and WWI monuments. Ben sped up at mile 13 while Dan and I stayed behind. One of my wishes had been to encourage other runners. I was unsure of how to do this with the language barrier beyond smiling at people, giving the thumbs up, and saying "success!" or "good luck". I was thrilled to be able to cheer on the English men. The course was absolutely beautiful and I enjoyed the rural quality. However, crowds can be a huge help when fatigue sets in. At every point where there were people I gave a huge "woohoo!" and then felt a bit rediculous and loud. Miles 16-20 were a bit discouraging and Dan dropped back at mile 19 but then caught up again from miles 21-25, which was great. My longest run prior to the marathon had been 23 miles which I did before the flight over. Another runner kindly observed that I should have had my long run 2 weeks prior to the marathon rather than a week. I replied, "Yes, that is what all the running articles and what my legs say. Oh well though. Live and learn. Learn and live." When I finally got into town and into the main square, I started sprinting and felt as though I were floating. The people at the finish line greeted me and there is something about running a marathon that is transcultural. The feelings of euphoria, success, the endorphins... ah it is a beautiful thing. It was a great to have accomplished a goal that I had been working towards for months. Melissa was there at the finish line with a huge hug. Although she thinks I'm completly crazy for wanting to run a marathon, she has been one of my biggest supporters. A true friend.
That night I read "In Flanders Fields" by Major John McCrae, a medical officer with the Canadian Army in WWI.
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses row on row
That mark our place; and in the sky
The Larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below
We are the Dead, Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields
Take up our quarral with the foe;
To you with failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields
While running the marathon, I was struck by how beautiful the country was. It seemed that the crops had grown to cover the scars of a brutal war fought almost a century ago. I wonder if by my initial raction to Ieper, if they did die in vain. The region was demolished, leveled by the war. Buckets upon buckets are still collected of shrapnel. Farmers still uncover mutions (highly unstable at this point) and remains while plowing the fields. How long did it take for the fields to become fertile again. Trenches still weave through the backyards of homes. At first glance, it seemed that life has moved on, poppies still grow through it all. However a further look is required. A pause is needed to begin to grasp the tragedy wrecked by fours years of war. It was to be the War that Ended All Wars. Sadly, the Treaty of Variselles lead only to another war, much larger and worse than the one before. The devestation of war must be understood, appreciatated. What we understand of history has a great impact on our actions today and the future.
Ieper Belgium
Welcome to a small hamlet in Western Belgium. Ieper or Ypres (there are 27 different spellings for the town) became prominent in the textile trade, as bustling as Brugges or Ghent in Belgium. Sadly a seige caused business to go elsewhere and the city dwindled in size. It was thrust onto the international scene during World War I. The city is walled and the most ornate building is the Cloth Hall, built in the 1200s and then rebuilt after the war. In 1914, it was the last remaining region unoccupied by the Germans and became a massive battlefield. Allied forces occupied it in hopes of preventing the Germans from sweeping southward and occupying French sea ports. Over 300,000 British, Australian and Canadian forces met their deaths in Flanders. The number of German dead is not known, as records were destroyed and victors write the history books. The area was completely demolished by war. Aerial pictures revealed a flattened, war torn landscape.
Melissa and I successfully navigated the train system to Ieper. We entered the train station in hopes of finding a city map but found a very nice park ranger from Montana instead. A U2 and history fanatic, he enthusiastically gave us directions to the main road that our directions indicated that our B&B was on. We wandered through the city, on cobblestone streets and through the main square (that had to be refurbished following the war) and then realized that Menin Road ended and our B&B was not in sight. We stopped at a British WWI shop and the lady kindly called the B&B. We waited for Alaine to pick us up outside of Menin Gate, a memorial to the soldiers of the British Empire who were never found. 54,896 names are chiseled into the stone. Melissa noted that we walked under a memorial commemorating the "War to End All Wars" on September 11, the events of which have led America into two more wars. Alaine arrived in a little red Fiat. After whizzing through the countryside and passing many graveyards we arrived at the Protea B&B. A safari themed room greeted us. It turns out that Alaine lived in South Africa for 12 years and that the Protea is the national flower of South Africa. I must say that one does not expect a safari when visiting a WWI battlefield in Belgium. We walked into the neighboring village of Gelivuld in search for food. We did not find any. It turns out that cafe means beer but no food. We stopped at a small market that had a meat counter and odds and ends. Not exactly the carb loading feast I was hoping for prior to my first marathon. We walked the 2 miles back to the B&B and asked for a dinner recommendation. Alaine loaned us two bikes and gleefully laughed at us as we peddled off. Our directions went something like this, "Go out here, turn right on the road where the road goes down the hill and go straight. The road will go off to the left but don't worry, just keeping going straight. Don't worry, you won't miss it." Surprisingly, these directions were sufficient. Nonnibus was a family friendly restaurant with a large kiddy air castle in the back. Children were very present, loud and barefoot. We ordered from a Dutch menu (meat and pepper kabobs, fries, and salad with a dollop of mayo on top) which was actually quite good. We then had a sorbet and fruit sundae with a mysterious green sauce that was delicious and made all the small children envious. We then switched on the bike head lamps and road back through the country side to our safari room. I only wish I had the words to convey just how odd and random and filled with laughter our day was. Truly an adventure.
Melissa and I successfully navigated the train system to Ieper. We entered the train station in hopes of finding a city map but found a very nice park ranger from Montana instead. A U2 and history fanatic, he enthusiastically gave us directions to the main road that our directions indicated that our B&B was on. We wandered through the city, on cobblestone streets and through the main square (that had to be refurbished following the war) and then realized that Menin Road ended and our B&B was not in sight. We stopped at a British WWI shop and the lady kindly called the B&B. We waited for Alaine to pick us up outside of Menin Gate, a memorial to the soldiers of the British Empire who were never found. 54,896 names are chiseled into the stone. Melissa noted that we walked under a memorial commemorating the "War to End All Wars" on September 11, the events of which have led America into two more wars. Alaine arrived in a little red Fiat. After whizzing through the countryside and passing many graveyards we arrived at the Protea B&B. A safari themed room greeted us. It turns out that Alaine lived in South Africa for 12 years and that the Protea is the national flower of South Africa. I must say that one does not expect a safari when visiting a WWI battlefield in Belgium. We walked into the neighboring village of Gelivuld in search for food. We did not find any. It turns out that cafe means beer but no food. We stopped at a small market that had a meat counter and odds and ends. Not exactly the carb loading feast I was hoping for prior to my first marathon. We walked the 2 miles back to the B&B and asked for a dinner recommendation. Alaine loaned us two bikes and gleefully laughed at us as we peddled off. Our directions went something like this, "Go out here, turn right on the road where the road goes down the hill and go straight. The road will go off to the left but don't worry, just keeping going straight. Don't worry, you won't miss it." Surprisingly, these directions were sufficient. Nonnibus was a family friendly restaurant with a large kiddy air castle in the back. Children were very present, loud and barefoot. We ordered from a Dutch menu (meat and pepper kabobs, fries, and salad with a dollop of mayo on top) which was actually quite good. We then had a sorbet and fruit sundae with a mysterious green sauce that was delicious and made all the small children envious. We then switched on the bike head lamps and road back through the country side to our safari room. I only wish I had the words to convey just how odd and random and filled with laughter our day was. Truly an adventure.
The Red Light District
Its reputation precedes it. The area of Amsterdam devoted to sex and drugs. The Red Light District has a long history dating back to when prostitution was legalized in Amsterdam. Amsterdam became a thriving trade center and sailors were always eager to get off the boat from a long voyage and into the arms of a woman. There are shops called "The Erotic Cellar". Lingerie, sex toys and condoms are framed in the windows. One shop is completely devoted to condoms. Every size and color. Some have different tips; a rocket, seahorse, dragon, snake. The Statue of Liberty looked a bit odd and uncomfortable. Bright signs advertise live sex shows. There are many bars and coffee shops. The Cannibis College, Hemp Museum and for that matter, our hostel are all located there. Urinals are scattered throughout. The Old Church, which no longer serves as a church, was located conviently between the docks and the district for sailors repentence. Some corrupt and conieving priests developed a card so that you could repent for sin you were about to do, for a small fee of course.
And now to the ladies. It is surreal to see them standing in the windows. Some simply stand there, others dance, some look amazingly bored and talk on their cell phones and yet others are um... more erotic in their invitations. When a man approaches they invite him in, name the price and draw the curtain. 50 Euros will buy 15 minutes with a lady. Rooms/windows are rented for 70-400 Euros a month. Rooms are equipped with panic buttons to push in case of trouble. I suppose rates are based on location, time of day and security provided. There is no photography in the district as it is in business 24/7. If pictures are taken, the ladies will come out and throw the camera in question in the canal. The youngest girls are 18 years old. The oldest is 82 and has a 2 week wait list.
When we went during the day it was quiet and felt quite safe. Thursday night it was suprisingly quiet, almost a respectful hush. On Friday, Melissa and I saw a group of Asian business men counting the cash in their wallets as they walked through Dam Square. I said, "Mmm, I wonder where they could be going." Melissa suggested that we follow them. So we did. We discovered that we should not become spies and that our trailing techniques left a lot to be desired. We left the men in line for the live sex show and continued walking the streets. The district was much louder and had more energy than before. Girls opened their doors and were chatting to each other, pulling men in by their ties if they paused a bit too long outside a door. There was a pink glow from the red lights.
While on our walking tour of Amsterdam, a young Swiss man asked me how I felt about the Red Light District as a woman. I also asked him what he thought of the District. He said that he didn't think it was beautiful, that although the women might be beautiful, what they were doing was not. His response gave me hope for men. I wondered about the women. What were the circumstances that caused them to become prostitutes? How many chose it as a way of life? The money is certainly good. How many were forced into prostitution due to human trafficking? It breaks my heart to see people selling themselves. I would hate for self worth to be determined by appearance and sexuality. As a Christian, I believe our worth is found in Christ. We are children of God, created by Him for His glory and that our lives should be lived in response to His grace, love and mercy and should honor Him. Christ paid the ultimate price so that we would never have to sell our lives. People, who are created as beautiful and unique individuals should never be for sale. Sex is personal, meant and created to be between a husband and wife to celebrate and honor their love for each other. I feel that the women behind the glass more resembled a zoo and that sex was reduced to fulfilling an animalistic need.
And now to the ladies. It is surreal to see them standing in the windows. Some simply stand there, others dance, some look amazingly bored and talk on their cell phones and yet others are um... more erotic in their invitations. When a man approaches they invite him in, name the price and draw the curtain. 50 Euros will buy 15 minutes with a lady. Rooms/windows are rented for 70-400 Euros a month. Rooms are equipped with panic buttons to push in case of trouble. I suppose rates are based on location, time of day and security provided. There is no photography in the district as it is in business 24/7. If pictures are taken, the ladies will come out and throw the camera in question in the canal. The youngest girls are 18 years old. The oldest is 82 and has a 2 week wait list.
When we went during the day it was quiet and felt quite safe. Thursday night it was suprisingly quiet, almost a respectful hush. On Friday, Melissa and I saw a group of Asian business men counting the cash in their wallets as they walked through Dam Square. I said, "Mmm, I wonder where they could be going." Melissa suggested that we follow them. So we did. We discovered that we should not become spies and that our trailing techniques left a lot to be desired. We left the men in line for the live sex show and continued walking the streets. The district was much louder and had more energy than before. Girls opened their doors and were chatting to each other, pulling men in by their ties if they paused a bit too long outside a door. There was a pink glow from the red lights.
While on our walking tour of Amsterdam, a young Swiss man asked me how I felt about the Red Light District as a woman. I also asked him what he thought of the District. He said that he didn't think it was beautiful, that although the women might be beautiful, what they were doing was not. His response gave me hope for men. I wondered about the women. What were the circumstances that caused them to become prostitutes? How many chose it as a way of life? The money is certainly good. How many were forced into prostitution due to human trafficking? It breaks my heart to see people selling themselves. I would hate for self worth to be determined by appearance and sexuality. As a Christian, I believe our worth is found in Christ. We are children of God, created by Him for His glory and that our lives should be lived in response to His grace, love and mercy and should honor Him. Christ paid the ultimate price so that we would never have to sell our lives. People, who are created as beautiful and unique individuals should never be for sale. Sex is personal, meant and created to be between a husband and wife to celebrate and honor their love for each other. I feel that the women behind the glass more resembled a zoo and that sex was reduced to fulfilling an animalistic need.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Amsterdam
Amsterdam is a beautiful city. The people are friendly. There is a culture of tolerance. Since the early 1200s when it was first established, the people's main concern has been floods. After all, that is what happens when the majority of the city is built on land reclaimed from the sea (I have summitted Mt. Amsterdam and dare I say, I got a bit of altitude sickness at 1.5 meters above sea level). There is an attitude of "Let's put differences aside and work to save and preserve our city from the sea." Once survival wasn't the primary concern that attitude morphed slightly to "I don't care about your language or religion or customs, as long as what you have to offer is good for business and we can make a profit." The people are proud of their secular nature, but they do serve the Almighty Euro. The people are pragmatic and coexist. Perhaps one of the better examples is the Dam Center where metro trains, cars, bikes, tuk tuks, pedestrian, horse carriages meet with surprisingly few accidents.
Amsterdam is a city of canals and and bridges. Over 200 canals have been built along the river Amstel. The homes are narrow and tall, built along the canals. Homes under construction were taxed based on the width of the home. It is interesting to compare that to America where we have to follow zoning laws decreeing that only homes of certain sizes and stories on certain sized lots can be built. The homes lean to the side and forward. They are built on wooden poles drilled into the ground and as the wood begins to rot, the home leans. It is very expensive to replace the foundation and procrastination is a general rule. There is quite a lot of business in leveling floors and crooked windows. Amsterdam is a city of bikes. There are as many bikes as people. Every year 20,000 bikes are pulled out of the canals.
Trade has been central to the development of Amsterdam. The East and West India Trading Companies were based out of Amsterdam. Amsterdam was also the site of religious pilgrimages after the Miracle of the Bread. A man was dying and a nun gave him bread as part of the sacrament for Last Rights. He vomited up the bread which somehow then had the ability to float around the fire. It was also fire proof and kept returning to the home of the now dead man. Amsterdam became a pilgrimage site and people would crawl around a silver box containing the bread three times to be cured. Sadly, a thief stole the bread box and upon finding a crouton instead of treasure, threw the magical bread into the water. So the bread that could levitate, survive two fires, and cure people came to a soggy end. However, in the meantime, Amsterdam prospered and business continued to thrive despite the tragic loss of the bread.
Amsterdam is known for its tolerant attitude towards drugs and the infamous coffeeshops. Marijuana and soft drugs are actually illegal but are not considered a criminal offense, leaving a large gray area for a booming business. The term "plausible deniability" is used frequently. As long as it doesn't disrupt or harm others and is discreet, then it is ok. And if they can tax it, all the better. I would not say that cannabis is discreet. Every souvenir shop offers a fine selection of marijuana memorabilia. It's mostly the tourist who frequent the coffeeshops. Only 10% of the Dutch population smokes weed regularly.
Dutch is a very hard language and the people are known to have some interesting names. After Napoleon conquered the Dutch, he installed his little brother Louis as king. Louis was a terrible king and Napoleon took over control after watching his little brother muddle around for 7 years. Louis decreed that everyone must take a last name. Many chose their occupation as their last name. Tom the baker became Tom Baker. Others choose King or Emperor as their last name. Still others chose to make a greater mockery of it. They selected "Pubic Hair" and "Shit on Head" and other raunchy names. 10% of the nation is getting the crap beaten out of them on the playground because their great great great granddaddy had a crude sense of humor.
We also have gone to the Anne Frank House. It is excellent and extremely well done. I had no idea that the rooms were that small. For some reason the diagram in the book made it seem bigger. I absolutely cannot imagine spending two years confined to the rooms and during the turbulent teenage years... and being forced to be quiet... There are quotes and excerpts from her journal on the walls. Otto Frank, her father, was the only one who survived. After reading his daughter's journal, he was shocked to find a young woman that he didn't know. Upon reading that her dream was to become a writer, he earnestly sought to find a publisher. The Diary of Anne Frank is the third most translated book. Otto Frank also established a youth conference where current issues regarding discrimination, intolerance and lack of freedoms are discussed.
We have also been to the Red Light District but I think that will have to be a separate post
Amsterdam is a city of canals and and bridges. Over 200 canals have been built along the river Amstel. The homes are narrow and tall, built along the canals. Homes under construction were taxed based on the width of the home. It is interesting to compare that to America where we have to follow zoning laws decreeing that only homes of certain sizes and stories on certain sized lots can be built. The homes lean to the side and forward. They are built on wooden poles drilled into the ground and as the wood begins to rot, the home leans. It is very expensive to replace the foundation and procrastination is a general rule. There is quite a lot of business in leveling floors and crooked windows. Amsterdam is a city of bikes. There are as many bikes as people. Every year 20,000 bikes are pulled out of the canals.
Trade has been central to the development of Amsterdam. The East and West India Trading Companies were based out of Amsterdam. Amsterdam was also the site of religious pilgrimages after the Miracle of the Bread. A man was dying and a nun gave him bread as part of the sacrament for Last Rights. He vomited up the bread which somehow then had the ability to float around the fire. It was also fire proof and kept returning to the home of the now dead man. Amsterdam became a pilgrimage site and people would crawl around a silver box containing the bread three times to be cured. Sadly, a thief stole the bread box and upon finding a crouton instead of treasure, threw the magical bread into the water. So the bread that could levitate, survive two fires, and cure people came to a soggy end. However, in the meantime, Amsterdam prospered and business continued to thrive despite the tragic loss of the bread.
Amsterdam is known for its tolerant attitude towards drugs and the infamous coffeeshops. Marijuana and soft drugs are actually illegal but are not considered a criminal offense, leaving a large gray area for a booming business. The term "plausible deniability" is used frequently. As long as it doesn't disrupt or harm others and is discreet, then it is ok. And if they can tax it, all the better. I would not say that cannabis is discreet. Every souvenir shop offers a fine selection of marijuana memorabilia. It's mostly the tourist who frequent the coffeeshops. Only 10% of the Dutch population smokes weed regularly.
Dutch is a very hard language and the people are known to have some interesting names. After Napoleon conquered the Dutch, he installed his little brother Louis as king. Louis was a terrible king and Napoleon took over control after watching his little brother muddle around for 7 years. Louis decreed that everyone must take a last name. Many chose their occupation as their last name. Tom the baker became Tom Baker. Others choose King or Emperor as their last name. Still others chose to make a greater mockery of it. They selected "Pubic Hair" and "Shit on Head" and other raunchy names. 10% of the nation is getting the crap beaten out of them on the playground because their great great great granddaddy had a crude sense of humor.
We also have gone to the Anne Frank House. It is excellent and extremely well done. I had no idea that the rooms were that small. For some reason the diagram in the book made it seem bigger. I absolutely cannot imagine spending two years confined to the rooms and during the turbulent teenage years... and being forced to be quiet... There are quotes and excerpts from her journal on the walls. Otto Frank, her father, was the only one who survived. After reading his daughter's journal, he was shocked to find a young woman that he didn't know. Upon reading that her dream was to become a writer, he earnestly sought to find a publisher. The Diary of Anne Frank is the third most translated book. Otto Frank also established a youth conference where current issues regarding discrimination, intolerance and lack of freedoms are discussed.
We have also been to the Red Light District but I think that will have to be a separate post
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Planes, Trains and Automobiles
We have arrived! After a very long trip (but not the longest) via planes, trains and automobiles, we are in Amsterdam. I woke up on September 7 on my family's farm and ranch in Nebraska, boarded a plane that night in Denver and finally went to bed on September 8th in Amsterdam. Traveler's Tip: It is not wise to run 23 miles the day before a transatlantic flight.
I'm not going to lie, we are off to an auspicious beginning. Our flight from Denver was delayed so we missed our connecting flight at Heathrow. Tip for fellow travelers; 1 hour is not adequate for a layover time at Heathrow when flying in and out of Terminal 5. Heathrow was sensory overload on steroids. Normally, I really enjoy airports for the people watching opportunities that they afford. However, I was thrilled when we were able to get seats on the next flight. Thankfully, our luggage made it too! Upon our arrival to Amsterdam, we promptly got on the wrong train. It was headed in the right direction but the wrong route. A very nice Dutch man overheard our conversation and was very helpful and pointed us in the right direction. We arrived at our hostel at 9:30 pm and were so exhausted that we went straight to bed. This morning, as we were rummaging through our packs, I realized that perhaps we need to get more efficient and prepared and lay out our stuff the night before as to be more considerate to our roommates. After all, the House Rules do state, "Don't be an ass to your roommates." The house rules also include; "No Hard Drugs. No tobacco smoking but smoking weed and hash is allowed, just not at breakfast."
Thoughts...
While we were waiting at the train station to catch the right train, we were approached by a lady selling the "Anne Frank Newspaper" It was her only copy and looked like it might have been pulled from a trashcan. Years of drugs and smoking were etched upon her face. Her ataxia was marked as she walked up and down the train platform in black track pants and rubber boots. I wondered what events had led her to that train station. Had she once been part of the infamous Red Light District? What was her childhood like? Was she a wife, a mother? What had led her to peddling newspapers to people who said, "I'm sorry, I don't understand." Oh, but we do understand, the human tragedy crying out for redemption crosses language barriers. Sadly, sometimes our actions do not.
And now for something a bit more cheery
We have decided to keep track of smiles and conversations started as a result of the yellow ukulele. Melissa first chatted with a lady in the line for security at DIA. The flight attendant appreciated its small size and the happiness that it inspires. It cheered the really crabby BAA lady. BAA is the equivalent to TSA- my guess is British Airways Authority. It started a whole conversation with a man from San Jose who had arrived for an International Broadcasting Convention while we were waiting at baggage claim. It really is a great instrument and it hasn't even been played yet.
I'm not going to lie, we are off to an auspicious beginning. Our flight from Denver was delayed so we missed our connecting flight at Heathrow. Tip for fellow travelers; 1 hour is not adequate for a layover time at Heathrow when flying in and out of Terminal 5. Heathrow was sensory overload on steroids. Normally, I really enjoy airports for the people watching opportunities that they afford. However, I was thrilled when we were able to get seats on the next flight. Thankfully, our luggage made it too! Upon our arrival to Amsterdam, we promptly got on the wrong train. It was headed in the right direction but the wrong route. A very nice Dutch man overheard our conversation and was very helpful and pointed us in the right direction. We arrived at our hostel at 9:30 pm and were so exhausted that we went straight to bed. This morning, as we were rummaging through our packs, I realized that perhaps we need to get more efficient and prepared and lay out our stuff the night before as to be more considerate to our roommates. After all, the House Rules do state, "Don't be an ass to your roommates." The house rules also include; "No Hard Drugs. No tobacco smoking but smoking weed and hash is allowed, just not at breakfast."
Thoughts...
While we were waiting at the train station to catch the right train, we were approached by a lady selling the "Anne Frank Newspaper" It was her only copy and looked like it might have been pulled from a trashcan. Years of drugs and smoking were etched upon her face. Her ataxia was marked as she walked up and down the train platform in black track pants and rubber boots. I wondered what events had led her to that train station. Had she once been part of the infamous Red Light District? What was her childhood like? Was she a wife, a mother? What had led her to peddling newspapers to people who said, "I'm sorry, I don't understand." Oh, but we do understand, the human tragedy crying out for redemption crosses language barriers. Sadly, sometimes our actions do not.
And now for something a bit more cheery
We have decided to keep track of smiles and conversations started as a result of the yellow ukulele. Melissa first chatted with a lady in the line for security at DIA. The flight attendant appreciated its small size and the happiness that it inspires. It cheered the really crabby BAA lady. BAA is the equivalent to TSA- my guess is British Airways Authority. It started a whole conversation with a man from San Jose who had arrived for an International Broadcasting Convention while we were waiting at baggage claim. It really is a great instrument and it hasn't even been played yet.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Unemployed and Homeless
This morning I woke up with a new status. Unemployed and homeless. The very image of success. I called my dad last night on my way home from work.
"Hey dad, I'm unemployed and homeless. You must be so proud." His reply was amazing, "I am proud of you because this is a decision that you made to follow a dream." I have a great dad.
The past week has been ridiculously busy. Sleep deprivation accurately sums it up. I have moved out of my house and quit my job. The house I have called home for the last two years is adorable, colorful, character-filled and quirky. How many houses do you know have a random hole in the wall that is framed? My last day at work was wonderful. I was struck by how much I love my job and how much I love being nurse. My coworkers were incredible, generous, supportive and helped make my day awesome. I was completely touched and humbled. I also ran on a sugar high all day. It was delicious and nutritious.
Leaving my job and house has been incredibly difficult. The post-college chapter of life has been fantastic and I have enjoyed it and have been blessed in many ways. I'm just ready for a fun adventure and a new environment. That doesn't mean that I haven't loved the life I have led and saying good-bye to something you love is challenging. If my friend Jalean hadn't come up to the floor to leave work with me, I might still be sitting at the nursing station, jumping up to answer call lights. I had to take a very big breath and walk out the door. I think this part of the journey is much more difficult than actually getting on a plane to leave the country, knowing that I will be out of my comfort zone for the next 10 weeks, far from home, family and friends. I talked to Melissa and she said, "Holy Crap! This is happening! We are actually doing this!" My sentiments exactly.
Through this process, I'm amazed at how blessed I am. I am blessed to have had a job and a house to leave. I am blessed to have the financial means to chase this dream and a fantastic friend to travel with. My friends and family have been incredibly supportive, generous and understanding. I'm storing everything at a friend's house so that I don't have to rent a storage unit. She has helped me move and clean. My brother is letting me crash at his house. My parents are taking my very large, energetic, enthusiastic golden retriever, Ellie. Unfortunately, due to my marathon training, I have not worn her out. I have only given her the gift of endurance. The ranch will be a good place for her while I'm gone. Ellie, by the way, knows that something is going on and is confused and not sure that she approves. She has been very loud and concerned. Annoying at times but dang cute. I am also extremely blessed to have a sense of peace regarding my future upon my return. I believe I have a calling and a career direction and that God will provide.
So the first part of the journey has been accomplished. Quit and move. Check and check. Next on the list: fly to Europe and have a rockin awesome, beautiful, amazing adventure.
"Hey dad, I'm unemployed and homeless. You must be so proud." His reply was amazing, "I am proud of you because this is a decision that you made to follow a dream." I have a great dad.
The past week has been ridiculously busy. Sleep deprivation accurately sums it up. I have moved out of my house and quit my job. The house I have called home for the last two years is adorable, colorful, character-filled and quirky. How many houses do you know have a random hole in the wall that is framed? My last day at work was wonderful. I was struck by how much I love my job and how much I love being nurse. My coworkers were incredible, generous, supportive and helped make my day awesome. I was completely touched and humbled. I also ran on a sugar high all day. It was delicious and nutritious.
Leaving my job and house has been incredibly difficult. The post-college chapter of life has been fantastic and I have enjoyed it and have been blessed in many ways. I'm just ready for a fun adventure and a new environment. That doesn't mean that I haven't loved the life I have led and saying good-bye to something you love is challenging. If my friend Jalean hadn't come up to the floor to leave work with me, I might still be sitting at the nursing station, jumping up to answer call lights. I had to take a very big breath and walk out the door. I think this part of the journey is much more difficult than actually getting on a plane to leave the country, knowing that I will be out of my comfort zone for the next 10 weeks, far from home, family and friends. I talked to Melissa and she said, "Holy Crap! This is happening! We are actually doing this!" My sentiments exactly.
Through this process, I'm amazed at how blessed I am. I am blessed to have had a job and a house to leave. I am blessed to have the financial means to chase this dream and a fantastic friend to travel with. My friends and family have been incredibly supportive, generous and understanding. I'm storing everything at a friend's house so that I don't have to rent a storage unit. She has helped me move and clean. My brother is letting me crash at his house. My parents are taking my very large, energetic, enthusiastic golden retriever, Ellie. Unfortunately, due to my marathon training, I have not worn her out. I have only given her the gift of endurance. The ranch will be a good place for her while I'm gone. Ellie, by the way, knows that something is going on and is confused and not sure that she approves. She has been very loud and concerned. Annoying at times but dang cute. I am also extremely blessed to have a sense of peace regarding my future upon my return. I believe I have a calling and a career direction and that God will provide.
So the first part of the journey has been accomplished. Quit and move. Check and check. Next on the list: fly to Europe and have a rockin awesome, beautiful, amazing adventure.
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